Training for Ice Climbing

[mattdrayer]

I typically work through a [Mountain Tactical Institute][https://www.mtntactical.com] training program in the fall to get ready for ice season. The workouts are pretty brutal -- a combination of strength, work capacity, and stamina sessions. Lots of traditional barbell lifts, loaded step-ups, and tool-work. I've been pretty impressed over the years with their programming, and can really feel the difference when I've been able to train more versus less in a given year.

How do other people get ready for ice climbing? Do you have any particular program or approach that you follow?

[JohnChan]

aaron suggest climbing 5.8 jug hauls on lead until you can't feel your arms anymore.

[cwoodall]

Anyone have any opinions on those Furnace Dry Ice Tools? The one time I used them I got pumped to no tomorrow. I find the feedback of the rubber loop to be a bit odd and that does not really train you for feeling or using the pick properly, but I bet if you did some endurance workouts with them (sets of 10-20 min mostly continuous climbing or traversing) you would build monster endurance (and maybe build some mixed climbing skills too). Not sure how much they would help for pure ice.

I have also been liking these squat/stands that Will Gadd recommended:



Do 25 of those on each side, If you can't use your tools at the gym rings work ok too.

Also he made this sweet Wooden Ice Wall that I would totally make if I had a backyard I could put it up in.



P.S. I got the above videos from this excellent article https://www.climbing.com/news/steep-ice-skills-special/

[mattdrayer]

The Will Gadd "tool-ups" are a must-do imho to get ready for ice season. My approach is a bit different, however -- I wear a backpack and add weight over the course of a session. I'll also switch hands and mix-in single-leg presses as well. Here is an example of a typical "tool-up matrix" that I do:

5 x 10# pack, left hand, left leg
5 x 10# pack, left hand, right leg
5 x 10# pack, left hand, both legs

5 x 10# pack, right hand, right leg
5 x 10# pack, right hand, left leg
5 x 10# pack, right hand, both legs

5 x 10# pack, left+right hand (single tool), left leg
5 x 10# pack, left+right hand (single tool), right leg
5 x 10# pack, left+right hand (single tool), both legs

5 x 10# pack, right+left hand (single tool), right leg
5 x 10# pack, right+left hand (single tool), left leg
5 x 10# pack, right+left hand (single tool), both legs

5 x 10# pack, two tools, left leg
5 x 10# pack, two tools, right leg
5 x 10# pack, two tools, both legs

Do three rounds of this with progressive weighting (eg, 10#/15#/20#) and you will be in killer ice climbing shape!.