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What's wrong with Willey's Slide?

General Discussion Forum - Spray beta, post trip reports, etc.

by mattdrayer » Thu Feb 08, 2018 10:41 pm

I've been handling the Weekend #2 leader assignments for the 2018 Ice Program, and I've had a couple leaders balk (whine?) when I've suggested Willey's Slide as a good place to take a student. I'm not really sure why this is, to be honest. Willey's is a great climb! With Willey's you have 5+ pitches of alpine ice with easy parking, a short approach, nicely-exposed route, great views the entire way, some killer ice features, a bit of rock here and there, and an easy walk-off both at the top as well as at any point during the climb.

Am I missing something?
Matt Drayer

Ice Program Instructor 2010-2018, Ice Program '09, Rock Program '08
SOLO WFA+CPR | AIARE-1
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Ice Program Instructor
 
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by cwoodall » Sat Feb 10, 2018 1:22 pm

Maybe some association with it as a calf burner? That seems like a little bit of an exaggeration to me though.

It is also pretty exposed in the wind, so besides being a mild day can be a bit chilly
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by JohnChan » Wed Feb 14, 2018 7:17 pm

one of those whiners would be me. it's not that it's not a good learning location, it's just that most leaders want nothing to do with it.

you can get all the benefits of willeys slide at walk in the forest, or even the ice immediately past the hanging gardens. at both places, leaders can solo right up to the student and give advice, right next to them. unless you think soloing 5 pitches up willeys slide is safer, which i do not ;-)
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by ejl10 » Wed Mar 14, 2018 1:35 pm

Funny - I've never done Willey's but have this preconceived notion that I never want to do it. Not sure when or how that bias developed, but it's pretty burned into my psyche at this point. I get the sense I'm not the only one.
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by rbirk » Wed Mar 14, 2018 1:52 pm

I think Willey's Slide is an excellent location to introduce new climbers to multi-pitch ice. There's not much like it anywhere else in the area. Where else can you get five continuous pitches? The idea going there is for the MULTI-PITCH. Not to climb grade 2+ ice on top rope or follow one single pitch. The students I have taken there all have really enjoyed it. It's a fun place and even more when you have excited students! The latter is why we do this.
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by eric » Sat Mar 17, 2018 3:04 pm

Since Willey's was the first ice climb I ever did (1965 - one long straight wooden ax, 10 point (no front points) crampons, chopping steps - all day adventure) - it will always seem special to me.
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