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Let's Talk Tools

Geek out over your new gear. Share your reviews. Try to sell stuff.

by DonGillespie » Fri Feb 16, 2018 10:52 am

I've decided I want to buy a pair of Nomics. I really like the Petzl tools. I climb on Quarks right now and think they're great but I've sold on the idea that as I spend more time on steeper terrain I want a different tool. Maybe just good marketing on Petzl's part, we'll see.

My question is should I buy a pair of current generation tools now while I can find them on sale or is it worth it to wait for the new version to come out at the end of the season and pay a little more?
The big improvements seem to be the new pommel spike and they addressed the "wobble" issue that sometimes develops. The new spike looks like a big improvement but I'm not sure how much I should weigh the changes they made to address the wobble.

For those who haven't seen them: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2018/01/2 ... ools-2018/
DonGillespie
 
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by mattdrayer » Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:04 am

You're a bit caught in the middle, I would say. If you go with the current generation you are getting a solid tool with some known issues that you can (likely) manage. If you go with the new generation you are getting a solid tool that has (likely) addressed the known issues but you may have new issues that you can (likely) manage.

Personally I would keep climbing on the Quarks, cause they're great, and watch how the first season these new Nomics goes. If they are solid then pick up a pair of first-season tools or keep an eye out for a sale (or an IME coupon) and go all-new.
Matt Drayer

Ice Program Instructor 2010-2018, Ice Program '09, Rock Program '08
SOLO WFA+CPR | AIARE-1
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Ice Program Instructor
 
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by cwoodall » Fri Feb 16, 2018 1:31 pm

I am in a similar predicament going forward. I currently climb on the Cassin X-All Mountains, and I love them! They are great tools. However, I too have a dreams of steep ice and maybe even gnarly mixed terrain (if I ever actually climb these things is another story all together :lol: ). I personally have narrowed it down to a few possibilities besides the nomics.

Grivel Tech Machines : People seem to be very mixed on these, and I have not had a chance to try them out
Cassin X-Dreams : People seem to LOVE these tools, and I do too.

However, I kind of have a bit of a preference deep in my heart for the Nomics, which I managed to finagle for almost every outing during the AMC program. I love they way they swing and sit in my hand. The "wobble" is interesting and I am not sure how big of an issue it is if you stick to pure ice, but it sounds like it is a common issue if you do any mixed climbing.

Personally my strategy is going to be to watch out for this generation of Nomics as old stock is released, you might find a handful of good deals if you watch carefully. To be honest the new Ergonomics also look pretty cool. I would love to get a few laps on them though.
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by DonGillespie » Fri Feb 16, 2018 3:26 pm

Matt, I think you nailed it. I should probably wait. I don't want to, but I should.

Chris, I'm not too worried about the head wobble but the pommel spike is looks like a major improvement. I feel like the current generation of tools skate around if I try to cane with them. The current generation has been popping up for 25% off on various sites for the last couple of weeks.
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by cwoodall » Fri Feb 16, 2018 3:54 pm

Waiting is a good idea. That is my plan. My X-All's and your Quarks will get us through anything we have the right to be on anyway.

Waiting is also a weakness of mine says my brand new G20's :shock:
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